Zehnthof Luckert Creutz Sylvaner 2018
An absolute curiosity from the southernmost part of the Sonnenberg, an ancient site called Creutz. A very warm location on shell limestone, with a warm, light loess layer. The last vineyard that “survived” the land consolidation in this village, so to speak. The vines were planted in the 1870s and are therefore more than 140 years old and, accordingly, of course root-proof. A very small vineyard, however, there are only 500 to 600 bottles, depending on the vintage. Certified organic vineyard work. Taken over in 2009 from the Luckert Winery and "saved" from the impending deforestation and then rebuilt bit by bit, recultivated. The first wine was then filled from the 2012 vintage. The nose is remarkable in many ways, because on the one hand it looks totally balanced, calm in itself, without being loud or expressive. On the other hand, there is this enormous depth, an inner density and concentrated strength that unfolds so apparently light-footed and delicate. What is that comparable to? Ziereisen's Gutedel 10hoch4 comes to mind, with a similarly elegant, but full of extract and density radiance. Maybe a Kühns blackthorn. But then it gets tight with the comparisons. A distinctive spice surrounds the nose, very fine muscat tones, clove, there is no remarkable fruit expression in the foreground. Rather, the nose looks like a single piece, uniform, streamlined, very classy. In the mouth, the incredible density that the nose gave off is then confirmed. The Creutz lines the palate with a veil of light velvet, tightly woven, finely woven and yet multidimensional and engaging. Very fine-grained, delicate phenols play around the immensely deep, multi-layered core of the purest white fruit, light limestone mineral, like the finest chalk. Delicate citrus notes, white peach, reticulated melon, anise and white flowers. The whole thing is carried by fine saltiness and a phenomenal, calm trace of acid that never makes the Sylvaner appear fat or luxuriant, despite its irrepressible inner strength and density. Reminiscence of white Hermitage, of Condrieu are not wrong here, whether this silky texture and the insane depth of the extract. Great length, great grandeur and calmness. This wine is a structural event - can it be a Sylvaner? What the 140 year old vines extract into their small berries here is remarkable and what then ripens in the Luckert’s cellar does not need to shy away from international comparison. Here, the grape is completely behind the radiance of this old vineyard. Impressive.