Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Ducs 2017
Evidently since the 16th century, this clos has been owned by this former domain of the Dukes of Burgundy. The unit of measurement for vineyard area was then given in Burgundy in "ouvrée". It is said that a winemaker can work around 52 ouvrée in one day alone. This corresponds to an area of just over 2 hectares and is exactly the size of the Clos des Ducs, which was then designed according to this traditional unit of measurement. The soil is heavily calcareous, stony, barren, rather deep and very clayey with white marl. The perfect south-east orientation guarantees an ideal sunshine duration, and the very steep slope results in very good drainage. An absolute top location for centuries in every respect and the undisputed king of Volnay. This is THE world-class wine from this village and certainly, together with the Corton Grands Crus, the best Pinot Noirs in southern Burgundy. But totally different in style than any Corton. We are ultra-fine here and yet we have a lot of strength. Here is the fist in the velvet glove, completely lined with velvet and silk. But underneath is an incredible length and potential for many decades. While I found the previously tried Champans, despite its size, to be more rustic than this Clos des Ducs, we are here in an infinite delicacy. We have the fine sharpness of a waist pied, the force and strength of a champagne - all in one wine. And of course we have all facets here from dissolved cherry stone to cherry, black cherry, sour cherry. A little bit of raspberry and elder. Shows great complexity and strength, but the strength comes completely wrapped in silk. The 2017 has not quite the massive and tannin-rich size of the previously tried 16 Clos des Ducs, which is probably the best that d’Angerville has ever produced from an aging point of view. But a big wine is always 2017, it will be a giant with fruit and charm.