Rudolf May Himmelspfad Silvaner 2018
This year I took a close look at the vineyards with Rudolf May personally, there are very old vines planted here, every year there is little yield from small, thick-skinned berries. Everything has been farmed organically since 2016, and May 2019 will be Naturland certified, but management has been organic for years. The vines of this Grand Cru are around 60 years and older. Here too, the terroir consists of shell limestone. Right in Retzstadt on a mountain in southern exposure that looks like the Corton-Charlemagne. This wine is fermented spontaneously in the used wooden fermentation stand and then aged in a 1,200l wooden barrel, it remains on the whole yeast until it is filled. The Great Crop Sky Path is squeezed with stems and stems longer than the shepherd on the mash, namely 24 hours. The nose is a little less offensive than that of the shepherd. But extremely subtle. The large used wood still gets through. The difference to the grandiose shepherd is in this immense depth, this profound base, lots of apricot, peach, orange zest, grapefruit, the nose also shows a lot more yellow flowers, is not so playful, but intense, pushes from below. This is a Silvaner from the front row, without citrusiness, some green tea underneath, showing very nice freshness with a little mint, almost eucalyptus, but not citrusy, just pushing with a lot of pressure. Reminiscent of a super cuvee made of Chenin Blanc, everything in a delicacy that cannot be found in Burgundy, an additional, slightly earthy touch lies in this Silvaner. It is long, dense, rich, with nice apple notes, light earthiness, spice, lots of thrust. And while the shepherd was still a prancing ballerina in its complexity and racy subtlety, we simply have more intense thrust from below and a much denser body without ever getting fat, it stays fine. We stay more stylistically on the Loire here, especially in 2018 I notice this relationship between great Chenin Blancs and Silvaner so much. After so many Rieslings and Pinot Blanc tasting this year, it is becoming increasingly clear to me that the Silvaner can be one of the really independent, dreamy and really high-class grape varieties in Germany. You need the right soils, low yields, organic work, you just need a little effort, but then great things can come of it. If you want these wines with less fruit and therefore great elegance and fine minerality. Never to be confused with a Riesling and in no way giving off the same taste, but he doesn't want that at all. Earthy, spicy, noble, elegant and sublime, a terrific wine.