Pernand-Vergelesses 'Les Cloux' 2015
Over the years, first with Maurice and his son Remi, and today with Remi and his son Simon, this rock-solid domaine has provided us with wines of finesse, character, and startling purity—and at prices that put to rest the notion there is no value to be found in Burgundy anymore.
Each visit at this estate is a master class in the unique terroir of their northern sector of the Cote de Beaune, those less-appreciated vineyards in and around Pernand Vergelesses that flank the imposing hill of Corton.
Humility, it would seem, is written into the very character of the Pernandois. Whereas most villages in the Cote d’Or advertise the pedigree of their terroir by suffixing the name of their commune’s greatest vineyard onto the village name itself—Chassagne-Montrachet, Gevrey-Chambertin, Chambolle-Musigny, etc.—the folks in Pernand settled on “Vergelesses,” even though the vineyard “En Charlemagne” (a component of the legendary Corton-Charlemagne) accounts for a significant portion of their local DNA.
The white wines, while built less on acidity than the scintillating 2014s, display remarkable tension between succulent fruit and livewire energy, with a profound sense of dryness that effectively tames the fruit’s inherently ripe character.. As for the red wines, Rollin’s 2015s are among the best produced over our long collaboration. The vintage’s broad, sun-drenched heft is honed to a missile-point of devastating impact through Rollin’s guidance, with the firm structure of the vintage’s thick-skinned grapes leavened by a purity of a basket of red fruits. “Les Cloux” is a well-situated lieu-dit on the north side of the hill of Corton, adjacent to the premier cru “Sous Fretille” (see below). It faces southeast on a high, steep part of the hillside, and a general lack of any direct breeze there encourages notable ripeness. The wine possesses a lower-pitched, deeper nose than the basic Pernand-Vergelesses above, but with an equivalent limestone intensity more solid in its character than powdered. The palate is richer and thicker as well, but suffused with the alert acidity typical of the Rollin style. Only 20% of the oak employed during the elevage is new.