Reichsrat von Buhl Riesling Trocken Forster Kirchenstück 2017
A tiny location shared by the best growers. Not fraternally, but in tough competition. Usually the most difficult to get Grand Cru because there are so few. Kirchenstück is next to the Pechstein on one side and the Freundstück on the other. But the pitch stone on the same. even more puristic volcanic soil has a lot more steam. Kirchenstück does not stand 100% on hard basalt like pitch stone. There is also colored sandstone and gravel and lime. A multiple personality, perhaps the most complex wine in Germany. It has the elegance of the Jesuit garden and the power of the pitch stone. And it is the turbo version of Freundstück. But Kirchenstück is not as extreme on stony as the other three layers here. That is why Kirchenstück is always the most elegant Forster wine. The neighbor Freundstück is a bit cooler, and therefore always has a little more citrus aroma. Therefore, Freundstück is unique. The church piece also underwent biological acid degradation as part of its fermentation. This explains, among other things the melty sweetness from the extract, because the somewhat pungent malic acid turns into mild tartaric acid. The church piece is one of the three great plants from the forest, which is always fighting over the crown with pitch stone and Jesuit garden. Even if the friend piece comes along and the monster gets better and better. But basically, Kirchstück is the crown. The most sublime of all the great plants and that of all producers. At von Winning, von Buhl and Bürklin. And the nose is exactly that. We had the super sexy nose from the Jesuit garden, which is always so erotic. We had the sheer, rocky minerality of the pitch stone. We had the cool serenity of the Freundstück. And here we have some rest. Great, great calm. A calmness and grandeur that I had this morning at Christmann's Kapelle auction wine. A calm like the one-off wines by Peter Jakob Kühn. And also a silky delicacy on the nose, as they had some big plants in 2016. But we are 2017, the much louder and fruity, spicy year, with the much more intense fruit and the tension between rich yellow fruit, high acidity and high minerality. But the parish says nothing. Just say: Here I am. Raises the nose beautifully aromatic. Remain ultra-fine. We are talking here at Pechstein, Jesuit Garden, Freundstück and Kirchenstück with a yield of 25 hectoliters. The wine is still calm in the mouth. But it has an unbelievable mineral boost and a salty length that never becomes aggressive and is only totally present. In addition, very fine aromas. We have the 2016 chic in this church piece and we have the classic, mineral and fruity print from 2017. And always the fine ripe fruit in front. I like that extremely well. I wouldn't put it above 2016 because 2016 was almost the biggest thing I know, but 2017 is basically not worse - just different. And that's just amazing. 2017 was the best collection of her life for some producers. At Buhl we are at least at the same level as in 2016.