Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Vosne-Romanee 2017
Making a mark in Cote de Beaune right now we find Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey. With a talent for exceptional winemaking, Colin-Morey is notable for producing stunning, intuitive Bourgogne Blanc, which rely heavily on terroir and site-specific expressions of the Chardonnay varietal.
Pierre Yves honed his winemaking skills working for his father, Marc Colin, and after inheriting 6 hectares of vineyards in St. Aubin, he quickly set about launching his own domain in 2006.
The approach in both the vineyard and the winery is natural and non-interventionist. At Domaine Marc Colin he eliminated the use of herbicides in most of the vineyards and switched to plowing, which deepens the root system and improves the flavors of the wine. He follows the same program at his estate vineyards. Approximately 60% of the total production now comes from the estate vineyards in Chassagne and Saint Aubin. They bought a new press in 2006 and Pierre-Yves now harvests most of the purchased fruit with his own team. Production of the 1er and Grand Crus is still miniscule – only 2 or 3 barrel s from each vineyard.
The juice is pressed into barrel before primary fermentation and then Pierre-Yves leaves them alone as much as possible. Fermentation is always initiated by natural yeast and he does not stir the lees, rack the barrels or even filter the wines.
Pierre-Yves also prefers unusual barrels – about 80% of them are 50% larger than normal Burgundy barrels. Depending on the vintage, most of the top wines are aged in new oak, but the larger barrels minimize the oak influence and also delay the malolactic fermentation. The cellar is also kept very cold to further delay the malolactic fermentation – which ideally finishes 8-9 months after harvest. Approximately 18 months after harvest the wines are lightly fined and then bottled. The extended elévage helps preserve aromatic intensity and purity as well as giving the wines the right balance for long-term ageing.