Philipponnat, Clos des Goisses 2010
One of the smallest Goisses releases, with a paradoxically big personality. Just 5000 bottles made the grade for the blend of Clos des Goisses 2010, a tally Charles laments, "tasting it now I realize we could have made more!". Selecting only the leanest, liveliest plots, the team has succeeded in producing a wine of real vigor, notes of toast, smoke, and vanilla bolstered by bright fruit notes of fresh apricot and lemon and umeboshi plum. Textured and rich, but never heavy with it, this is a Goisses of enormous charm and vivacity. A blend of 71% Pinot Noir, 29% Chardonnay, 53% of which was fermented and aged in oak barrels. Disgorged March 2019.
The 2010 Clos des Goisses shows a distinctly tropical, exotic profile that is unusual in Clos des Goisses. Candied orange peel, passionfruit, burnt sugar, mint, and yellow flowers all meld together in the glass. Lush fruit, low-ish acid, and soft contours add to the wine's smooth, open-knit feel. Time in the glass brings out more lifted, aromatic notes that add to the wine's overall appeal. Offering up aromas of pear, waxy citrus fruit, fresh pastry, vanilla pod, and a light touch of smoky reduction, the wine is full-bodied, broad and layered, with a textural, highly concentrated profile, ripe acids and a precise, mineral finish. Two-thousand-ten presented significant challenges in the vineyard, including high disease pressure that required quite a bit of sorting. The blend is 55% Pinot Noir and 45% Chardonnay (a bit more Chardonnay than expected), while production is just 5,000 bottles. Clos des Goisses has an extraordinary track record, so ordinarily, I would not suggest opening wines young, but 2010 is a rare exception.
One of the highlights of this critical Champagne vintage, Philipponnat's 2008 Extra Brut Clos des Goisses is fabulous. Rich, ample and yet also full of the tension that makes the Champagnes of this year so appealing, the 2008 Goisses is crystalline and incredibly pure. Clos des Goisses has a track record of aging brilliantly for decades.