Moet & Chandon, Dom Perignon Oenotheque 1995
In recent years Geoffroy has instituted a program of releasing recently-disgorged older vintages under the Œenothèque label. Some of the vintages from the 1990s are in their second release (also known as second plenitude), while the older, classic wines from the 1960s and 1970s are being released for a third time (also known as third plenitude), but in miniscule quantities. As part of the disgorging process, each bottle is tasted to insure consistency, something that is especially important with wines that have spent several decades on the cork. Dosage is kept low to minimal, particularly for the older wines. While the Œenothèques, especially the third releases, can be very pricey, at their finest they offer an extraordinary, otherworldly drinking experience matched by few wines in the world. The 1995 Dom Pérignon Œenothèque (2nd release) is the second release of this wine, and was disgorged in 2005. This silky-textured Champagne reveals breathtaking finesse, elegance and clarity in its perfumed bouquet, with delicate notes of pears and roasted nuts that add further complexity. The finish goes on and on. This mind-bending, kaleidoscopic Champagne possesses all of the qualities of profoundness, most importantly the ability to develop beautifully in the glass and the potential to acquire even more depth in bottle over the coming years. 1995 was a hot vintage, but this wine remains remarkably fresh. Simply put, the 1995 Œenothèque is a stunner.