Markus Molitor Graacher Himmelreich Pinot Noir 2016
The longer the trial at Molitor progresses, in which I am obviously the first chosen taster who is allowed to try the 16 pinots, the more it becomes clear to me why the 2016 Einstern * is so brilliant and together with the Klostergarten ohne Stern 2016 is so outstanding. Also viewed over the past few years. Neither Himmelreich nor Schlossberg have received a one- or two-star version, and all of these qualities flowed into the Pinot Noir one-star. However, what remained in the smallest quantity for the three-star versions is really outstanding. And maybe the difference in 2016 between the three-star variants and those without a star is even more astonishing than in 2015. The Kingdom of Heaven *** in 2016 turned out to be significantly different from the 15 series. 15 we have this explosion of warm, rich, red fruit, this opulence, this concentration because of the extremely low yields that we shouldn't have expected from the Moselle. In 16 we are Moselan again, much finer, slanted, just as mature, because 16 was also a ripe year, but much more delicate. More balanced, floating, sublime than 15. Which certainly does not mean that it is better than 15, because their opulence is simply overwhelming. Himmelreich 16 shows this fine, slanting smoky wort over the black cherry, over the roughness, a hint of laurel, some spice reminiscent of juniper, Provencal herbs. And yet with ripe, black, dark fruit, almost reminiscent of Trarbach in the nose, that comes across incredibly beautiful. In the mouth, however, very different from the Trarbacher Schlossberg and the Brauneberg monastery garden, that is a very unique expression. This extreme elegance from Graach, from the position of Himmelreich, which also leads to this incredible filigree in Riesling, and especially in the remaining sweet Riesling. We also have that in this Pinot Noir. The Klostergarten *** is this beautiful opulence with rich, red fruit, almost reminiscent of 15, the Trarbacher Schlossberg is sparse and slightly detached and spacious. In the Kingdom of Heaven we married extraordinary elegance with red and black fruit, a lot of black cherry, but also a little hint of cassis underneath. Very nice juniper spiciness, a lot of slate, a lot of smoke, long, hedonistic and fine, almost floating. And always rolling with black cherry and a hint of cassis. This cassis note is a bit astonishing, it is definitely reminiscent of some wines from Vosne-Romanee, Meo-Camuzet says hello. What is even more astonishing is this impressive taste intensity, the wine may not go away at all. We have this version of black cherry and cassis with some flamed wood, with smoke from the slate in the mouth for minutes. It exudes a fine sweetness that sticks, almost a little balsamic like an ancient, concentrated balsamic stuck to the tongue and palate. The most exhilarated and hedonistic wine of all is the monastery garden ***, the red-fruity and perhaps also the tastiest. The poorest, most sublime and floating is Trarbach. And here in the Kingdom of Heaven *** we have a concentration and tension that goes far beyond that of the other two. That's why I don't find this wine better than the monastery garden, it is just completely different. He is much more mature, and he needs more time and also a little more experienced connoisseur, because he is so demanding and runs infinitely in its dark, black-fruity characteristics.