Franz Keller Eichberg 2017
Here in Eichberg there are 25-year-old Burgundian Pinot Noir clones, on black volcanic rock called tephrite. Because of the terroir, but also because of the Burgundy clones and the 35% co-fermented black horses, we have the most massive crackers in the glass with this wine. Fermented spontaneously in the large wooden fermentation stand. In the middle section there are two Pinot Noir GGs near Keller, the Kirchberg and the Eichberg. The Kirchberg is a bit finer, but for me, although often rated higher, it's usually the more boring. The Eichberg certainly does not have the class of the Schlossberg and in 2017 it is not dramatically better than the Enselberg, but it has its own fascinating style. In addition to the beautiful red and black cherry, also a little iron and rose hip, after deep, spicy, boiled plum, sloe, also a little roasted with a fine mocha touch and a bit earthy, incredibly pressing, deep and profound. In general, he has a wild note underneath, a spice of raw game meat, extremely independent, that's what makes his class. In the mouth, on the one hand, running puristically straight, with a great pull that draws your eyes together. Then again this idiosyncratic red fruit, paired with raw meat and a slight hint of iron, that probably reads totally weird now, but the wine is also so idiosyncratic. It is such a spicy wildness, cranberry, a little juniper, a little liquorice, that's a funny, but very wild Pinot with a unique character. I would not rate him much higher than the Enselberg, which is simply a mercilessly good Zechwein, but he has something that I cannot ignore. And it has a tension and a density that I never suspected in 2017. Almost massive in this slightly oblique, meaty, salty, punchy berry fruit with a spicy touch.