Ferraton Père et Fils Le Méal Ermitage 2017
Le Méal is located in the middle of the Ermitage mountain. The underground is alluvial, quartz sand, river sediments, some of which also occur in Crozes Hermitage. Here, however, not with so much coarse stones, but rather finer. Le Méal is located on the far right of Jaboulet Ainé, near the top of the Ermitage hill, all the way down. The lower half is taken for the Ermitage Les Dionnières, the upper half for this wine. Only 0.6 hectares at Ferraton, biodynamically processed, ancient Serine vines. Fermented spontaneously in the concrete, aging in barriques and half-pieces, partly new wood. Le Méal is more powerful and not as fine as Dionnieres, especially in 2017 it comes across extremely rich with so much rich black cherry, mulberry, blackberry, and a lot of black liquorice. Not sweet, but rich, intense, and as I said before at Cornas Patou, this is also a lot of wine. A wine where a lot comes from everything. The mouth entry is so massive, so intense, so incredibly black. This black, salty, Dutch licorice rolls up the tongue. Then there is this minerality that does not want to stop again. The mouth is covered for minutes, dominated by this black fruit, and yet the wine is quite fine. The tannin is completely sanded. There is nothing rough, nothing hard. Infinitely fine and long. And the great freshness also comes because Damien, the vineyard manager and oenologist of the house, gives 50% rappen for this wine. Quite unusual for Hermitage. This brings an additional element of freshness. I keep talking, I'm talking to Patrick, the managing director of Ferraton, and Le Meal doesn't want to leave. What remains after minutes? What remains is licorice, mulberry, sweet blackberry and cassis. But it also leaves a bit of mango and orange zest and minerality, stone, salt and length. If this wine had a little more acidity, a little more freshness from the acidity, would it be a Best Ever Le Meal, or do its clear 100 points lie in the calm and mature balance? I'm not entirely sure that he won't simply kill me in the end after 10-15 years of bottle maturation. You should definitely share this wine as a bottle for two, you can't do it alone. Great stuff.