Dönnhoff Oberhäuser Brücke Riesling Trocken GG 2018
The feet of the vines stand in slate, alluvial sands, volcanic parts. A very complex soil structure that has accumulated here on the river bed. The whole thing is at the bottom of the bridge and is the coolest location. Although this location is deep, it is often the poorest. The bridge will only be built dry in very big years. Otherwise only sweet wine comes here. There are no final analysis values at the time of the sample, but all GGs are between 12% and 13% vol in 2018. with alcohol. In 2018 we had a completely different microclimate here. Because the location is at the bottom of the valley, the coldest point at night, the day-night amplitude is even greater here because the bridge is not a steep slope. At the same time, due to the proximity to the river, there is also a certain cooling, the disadvantage for the dry wines here is that it also gives botrytis faster, so you have to be extremely careful and read carefully. On the other hand, the best sweet wines are made here. The botrytis only comes through the morning mist and then dries during the day in good years, there is no putrefaction from damp soils. We always have an extended maturation period in the bridge. The bridge GG of the auction is always a most meticulous selection with an incredible amount of manpower. Of course, due to this very special terroir of this location, there is not a dry top wine every year, the conditions simply have to fit completely. For example, in the top year 2016 there was no dry GG because the botrytis pressure was too high. In 2017 and 2018 everything was fine. The nose is very clean, totally straight and pure Riesling fruit with crazy minerality. And wow, the mouth is very different from all other GGs at Dönnhoff from this year. We have no explosion in our mouth at all, we have a bridge that tastes almost as if it has been on the lees for 18 months. Always very closed, tight and tight with a slight exotic in the background, but also an incredible, juicy softness, a playfulness. It is the same as with the top Burgundians like La Tâche or Romanée Conti, it no longer pops, but is just finer. It is the same here at the bridge. There are only 600 bottles from this location and they are infinitely fine. A bit different, a little reminiscent of Kühn's blackthorn, only that of course it stays on the yeast longer. We are finer and more elegant here, less in this yeast storage topic, but with a similar delicacy. This is a real delicacy, but please don't expect anything crashing, but something ultra-fine. Something that does not make huge demands on the drinker, but simply wants to flatter him.