Domaine Gourt de Mautens Rouge 2016 BIO
You have to know where the journey is going with Jerome Bressy. Where does he want to go? What is its style? Jerome makes ultra-fine wines, makes wines in the refined style of Cabernet Francs. In this floral style. He uses 12 or 14 different grape varieties, painstakingly treats his tiny 15 hectares, almost with nail scissors. Single floor education, partly root-safe. The Appellate Authority has now banned this historical composition. Now it's just devalued to table wine. Jerome doesn't care. No compromises like the terroir and the vines like the winemaker. The terroir are typical Rasteau soils. Argilo calcaire. 50% Grenache, the rest share Carignan, Mourvedre, Counoise, Syrah, Vaccarese, Cinsault and Terret Noir with some other, ancient vines. The majority was Grenache in 2014, but in other years like 2013 the majority was Mourvedre because the Grenache was not so good. Every winemaker on the Rhone, almost every winemaker in Burgundy, knows Jerome because he is such an exception. What's his secret Like the best winemakers on the Loire, he never unravel. If a vintage is not good enough, like the red 2013, it simply makes it out of even smaller yields, it is like Clos des Papes, the quality is always maintained! Or he makes a rose every jubilee. But otherwise everything he does is great. We now have a number of vintages in a row where not only are the vines getting older, but where Jerome knows his vineyard better and better. In the meantime, we also have climatic conditions that have resulted in the Rhone making a significant leap from heat to dry in recent years and at the same time a leap in quality. The yields of the top winegrowers are getting smaller and smaller. 2014 was a brilliant year in Gigondas and Rasteau, the wines were ultra-fine and chic. Exactly Jeromes Weine 2014, the best of the south! In 2015 there was warmth and power, and in 2016 there was finesse and great calm. 2016 Gourt de Mautens is the most balanced wine I have ever tried on the Rhone. And this also applies here to Jerome Bressy, who is so calm in himself. In addition, of course, this master of detailed work in the vineyard, the biodynamic engineer with this really extreme work ethic, creates wines from a different star. I can only compare this winemaker with Eric Jeannotau from the tiny 1.5 hectare Tertre de la Mouleyre winery in Saint Emilion. I think that of all my winemakers, even ahead of Clos Louie and Coutet, these are the two craziest pedants and the most extreme biodynamics that I have in my portfolio. There is no better way to express wines of the respective terroir and grape variety than these two in their total self-exploitation. These two masters have mutated to the vine! As in 2015, 2016 is much more intense in the fruit than the very calm, the ultra-fine 2014, which reflects the winemaker so much. But we are not quite as loud and warm in 2016 as in 2015. We do not have this Turbo Chateauneuf du Pape change as much as in 2015, but we are completely on the quiet side in red and black fruit. But nothing presses, everything is soft. A lot of elder alongside the black cherry. Strawberry, raspberry, blackberry. Multi-complex. The whole thing lightly underlaid with sea buckthorn notes. Fine Provençal flavor. But so calm, so fine. And as with white people, this nose continues in the mouth. The wine exudes an incredible calm. A calm that normally only a big, big Burgundy can make from a ripe year after 15 to 20 years in the cellar. Mature Musigny Grand Cru from Vogue. You drink this wine, you can't spit it. It is not an event, it is not a cracker, but simply infinitely fine, profound, dense, multi-complex. All senses are touched by this wonderful fruit game. Playing with total finesse. The tannin is silky and buttery soft. There is no sharpness, there is nothing green, only great length and incredible calm. And in this calm all senses are touched. Simply close your eyes, dream, enjoy. And if it's not Pinot Noir, it radiates exactly what we want from the best wines in the world. Namely mature harmony. This is what a great red wine should be for me, and this wine will definitely be a league above it in ten years in bottle maturity than it can show today. But today that is a hint of perfection, at least in my taste orientation.