Riesling Brand Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru trocken 2010 BIO
Combining fruit from the Steinglitz and core Brand with a majority from the relatively deeper-soiled Schneckenberg portion of this grand cru, Zind-Humbrecht’s 2010 Riesling Brand Vieilles Vignes retains unusually high acidity even by vintage standards and was very slow to ferment leaving behind 34 grams of residual sugar at 12.9% alcohol, features that no doubt owe much to the influence of botrytis, even though the most significantly affected bunches were culled to generate a V.T. bottling. (That virtually all of the vines were to some degree affected explains the absence of a corresponding non-Vieilles Vignes bottling, since the estate has trained its customers to associate obvious absence or presence of both sweetness and noble rot with the distinction between regular and Vieilles Vignes brand bottlings.) Rowan, honeysuckle, mint, maraschino, almond extract, apricot preserves and candied lime peel combine for a headily alluring, high-toned aroma and reemerge on a luscious and creamy yet simultaneously bright, juicy palate, frangipane and marzipan being reinforced in a long, vibrant finish by the wine’s overt sweetness, yet harmoniously marrying with fresh fruit as well as liquid floral flavors and in no way engendering a confectionary overall impression. This will merit restraint as it develops further interest in bottle and should reward return visits through at least 2035.