Ziereisen Jaspis Alte Reben 2015
The Rebalter is around 50 years, all planted from 1965 to the end of the 60s. On a 100% limestone base, pure rock. There are only 3 barrels of this wine, this is the best selection of barrels from the Jasper Pinot Noir. Expansion in 20% new wood of 225 liters capacity over a period of 21 months. Here we are also crushed with 50% whole grapes with our feet, but Ziereisens have a reading team that is trained to cut off the black horse in the right, woody place. Hans Peter rejects selected black horses that are added later, because in his opinion they are too severely damaged by the previous stripping and then give off "green" flavors. There are different views on this practice, Fürst, Huber, Ziereisen do it this way, but many wineries in Germany and Burgundy continue to add selected black horses. Hans Peter Ziereisen initially fermented this wine spontaneously in the closed fermentation tank, because he is of the opinion that an open mash fermentation, as is often carried out in Germany, is problematic because it releases aromas that he does not like, the cherry fruit becomes rather strawberry-like. You should either close your eyes or ferment in very large open fermentation containers, such as in Burgundy, because the fermentation temperature goes up here and you then get a burgundy aroma. This German fruit aroma often comes from low fermentation temperatures. J.B. Becker im Rheingau does not only ferment in a closed manner, but even in a pressure tank, a traditional German method that has been completely forgotten, but produces great results. Furthermore, a very high percentage of whole grapes in the wines ensures that the whole, not crushed berries still contain unfermented juice, which they release when they are subsequently pressed. Thus, the wine is partially fermented with a fairly high residual sugar in the barriques, where a second fermentation takes place again, which means that each barrel develops a little differently, so that a barrel selection can highlight particularly large differences. In 2014 there was the earliest flowering ever, followed by a rather hot and humid summer, actually a fantastic year, had it not been for the cherry vinegar fly that struck so much in Germany this year. It was a year with a whopping 140 days from flowering to harvest, because he read until November. The harvest took place at moderate temperatures around 15 degrees, but at night it was just over 0 degrees. Whether all these peculiarities, or all these complexities, 2014 was a very big year for Hans Peter Ziereisen, especially because of the long maturation period and the totally healthy harvest, if you worked carefully. The nose is bewitchingly intense, immensely rich, black and red cherry, rich and sweet, blueberry, eucalyptus, sloe, elderberry, ripe, dense and infinitely fine, almost tender, but this is not a fragile wine, but a Pinot with a lot of pressure . You have to pause for a moment in the mouth, the eyes contract, the tannins are plentiful, but they are so polished, ultra-silky. The wine changes from black fruit on the nose with spicy rapiness and elder, to sweet, red cherry, very Burgundian, but very much in the direction of Corton. I would never have blindly put the wine in Germany, but would have thought it to be a Corton-Bressandes or something similar. Infinitely long minerality, limestone, chalk, salt, almost tender and yet highly intensive in the silky tannins. Totally playful and rich in finesse. It will be a masterpiece in 10 years.