Dugat Py Domaine Dugat-Py Charmes Chambertin Grand Cru 2018
One of the wines of the vintage along the Côte de Nuits, the 2019 Chambertin Grand Cru is immensely promising. Wafting from the glass with complex aromas of peonies, wild berries, raw cocoa, blood orange and exotic spices, it's full-bodied, layered and perfumed, marrying striking concentration without weight with bright acids in an exquisitely elegant ensemble. Immensely long and perfumed, it isn't the most powerful wine in the range—it never is—but it's the most incipiently complex, the most refined and, ultimately, the most profound. Less than one barrel was produced, and I hope readers will accept my apologies for a review that's likely to excite an appetite for bottles that will be, to all intents and purposes, unobtainable.
100 Points Reviewed by William Kelley
Loïc Dugat-Py was once again one of the earliest to pick in the Côte de Nuits, beginning his harvest with Charmes-Chambertin on September 9 with a team of fully 60 in the vineyards. He characterizes 2019 as "very gourmand" and, like me, finds it hard to choose between his 2018s—which number among the most successful wines of that uneven vintage and which we revisited together from bottle—and their younger siblings, suggesting that 2019 is more charming and immediate but that 2018 may prove the more serious over the long haul. Time will tell, but what is clear is that this domaine simply doesn't miss these days. Happily, with the addition of several Beaune premiers crus, the more accessible—both financially and structurally—part of Domaine Dugat-Py's range has expanded, and these cuvées will offer an excellent introduction to what is now going on at this address.