STEPHANE OGIER Cote Rotie Reserve 2015
In the reserve, almost three quarters are fermented as a full bunch. Not unraveled, this applies to the reserve as well as to the individual layers. The whole grapes are only lightly pounded in the open vat with the feet, and during the fermentation the entire hat with all black peelings etc. is kept under the juice via a system of chains, i.e. there is no classic pigeage, no more pressing down of the hat, because the entire cake remains under juice. Pump over occurs at most once a day, in many cases not at all, because, as already said, everything is below the upper juice line anyway. This is an extremely careful, gentle extraction and a system like that of Ogier's father and grandfather. Back then, of course, with wood under the juice line instead of a stainless steel chain. The reserve consists of many individual layers around the La Grande Place area. Mostly Cotes Brune. 2015 shows a characteristic that is even superior to the style of the 99er that I remember so big. We are fully mature here, the full maturity of a year 2009. So beautifully pronounced, and we have a sensational freshness. The cool nights in August and September helped enormously to keep the freshness. A racy, and yet - and that did not exist before - this incredible charm in 2015. These Cote Roties are delicious on tap. Velvety tannins, silky, mostly red fruit, but also a lot of mint, eucalyptus, juniper, a lot of laurel, great seasoning, green olives, salty trace on the tongue, high intensity, high ripeness, and yet this incredible freshness, alongside great herb flavor. The wine is never exhausting and the expansion in the small wood dominates the wine far less than in weaker years. The wood is in the background, the great fruit, the classy freshness and the enormous minerality with this grandiose feature dominate everything. Great wine.